PRINT: Rock Climb Simple Simon, Wasatch Range

Simple Simon

5.11b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 121 votes
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Super Bowl Wall

Description

Overhanging roof with great jugs, although 1 or 2 key holds are hidden. Some reachy moves may be hard for short people. The entire route is overhung with barely any weight on your feet until the anchors. Climb it fast as you get pumped out of your mind hanging there looking for the next moves.

Fun strong route.

Great photo op with the valley & lake in the background

Location

In the middle of the overhanging wall section. Look at the beta photo. Starts at the chalk in the bottom middle and then goes up the jugs on the left side of the photo

Protection

5 bolts and chain anchors. All the bolts are clipped from solid jugs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful climb, beautiful area.

James Leavy getting the send. Rock Canyon classic.

Third bolt - just below the crux.
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PC: Ian McKell

Third bolt - just below the crux. PC: Ian McKell

golden hour on simple simon

Lovin' the steepness

Sweet sending victory!
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PC: Ian McKell

Sweet sending victory! PC: Ian McKell

Cole Grace on Simple Simon

Simple Simon

Excellent views

Steep but fun route

Simple Simon

Cole Grace on Simple Simon

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darren Knezek

5.11b

This was the first bolted climb at The Superbowl and at the time was one of the steepest climbs in Utah for .11b. A must-do for anyone who climbs in Rock Canyon at this grade and a great route to see where your power and technique are at on overhanging climbs. May 15, 2008

BJB
Salt Lake City, UT

I think that this was one of the most fun things i've ever done. It kicked our whole group's butt, but after a lot of effort I made it to the top.
The holds are great but the slope is relentless. There are some good feet in key spots, finding those gave me spots to clip from. To me, the route was mostly about not being intimidated by the slope (easily the steepest outdoor thing i've ever climbed) and committing to some of the ultra-bold moves to big but distant holds. The climb got a lot easier after the 4th bolt too. I'd highly recommend this one. Jun 6, 2011

Canyon Copa

Hands down the best overhanging route at this grade. It doesn't take much effort to find the holds as they are completely caked in chalk. Huge jugs, great protection, and technical moves keeping your feet on make for a great climb. May 30, 2012

Jonathan Charpentier
Salt Lake City, UT

5.11b

By far the most over hangy route I have ever done, thank goodness for the jugs. After the third bolt its really not bad at all! Apr 4, 2016

Logan Bradford
Lindon, UT

Easy to confuse this with Higher, Harder. To differentiate them, note that Simple Simon's 1st bolt *can* be clipped from the ground, and the route starts on smaller holds on more of a face. Higher,Harder, on the other hand, climbs a HUGE, juggy rail for the left hand up to the first bolt, which cannot be clipped from the ground (avg sized guy here). Apr 9, 2019

Joshua D. Andersen
Provo, Utah

As of March 2020, the bolts have been replaced with glue ins, except the first bolt, which is not a 1/2 wedge bolt. This wedge bolt will soon be replaced with a glue in as well. Mar 24, 2020

Joshua Brown
Provo, UT

Be very careful if you don't have a stick clip. The clip spot isn't super crazy good (it's fine) and a fall would mean a hospital trip.

Super sweet climb Nov 23, 2022

Russ Keane
Salt Lake

5.11b

Awesome but short. Agree about stick clip- Weird high first bolt with death landing beneath. Apr 27, 2023