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Bad Fortune

5.11c, Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: Greg Vernon and Jason Lodas, August 1990
California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / K… > The Needles > The Charlatan

Description

Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.

Location

Located just left of Fancy Free.

Protection

Standard rack, with some thin stuff and a double set of cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height. Sep 8, 2009
Murf
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I was glad I'm 6' tall, but I didn't think it brought the rating down to .11a. Overall an excellent pitch and well worth doing.

All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.

The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta? Jul 19, 2010