Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Gary Colliver and Mike Cohen, 1972
Page Views: 13,462 total · 89/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

The West Pillar route is a fun route and a great link-up with a route on Cathedral Peak. When linking these two routes, you effectively make a loop, hiking out on the John Muir trail, instead of the Cathedral Peak approach trail. The first pitch begins with a wide crack (5.9). There are two ways to go on the next section. The original route moves right and climbs 5.9 cracks to a horn in one pitch and climbs back left via 5.7 and 5.8 climbing in the next pitch. A direct route is also possible at 5.10 and is popular. This variation climbs directly above the first pitch belay for two pitches, both 5.10, and meets up with the original route where you can belay on the ridge. The 4th pitch is mostly 3rd class and ledgey with some 5th class terrain. It traverses underneath the ridge proper. The final pitch appeared to have some options but should stay left of the ridge, climbing one section of 5.8 and easier climbing before the summit.

Location

If climbing Eichorn's West Pillar after Cathedral, you will have to descend Cathedral to the ground and traverse around Cathedral to the west to reach the West Pillar route. If climbing the West Pillar route from the car, approach via the John Muir trail and Eichorn's West Pillar route is visible from the trail. The West Pillar route starts with an obvious, wide crack. Descent from Eichorn's is possible with one rope via a rappel from the summit.

Protection

Nuts, double set of cams to #1 Camalot and single set of cams to #4 Camalot. One rope.

Photos