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Routes in Block Tower

Bungi Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dance of Chance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hurt Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mister Mantle T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queer Bait T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Dwarf T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wrist Never Sleeps T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Mike Smith and Peter Hubbel 6/82
Page Views: 1,494 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dana Prosser on Feb 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Queer Bait is a very enjoyable, multi-pitch rock climb located on the Block Tower. The difficulties can be minimized by aiding through crux on good bolts making this route 5.10-A0.

P1- Start up left side of flake below obvious roof. After about 10 feet, head right, place a good cam in crack and face climb right, and up to good bolt, a few more face moves takes you to wide crack that gets smaller as you ascend 5.9+/5.10a (180 feet to fixed anchor).

P2- This short pitch climbs double crack system to next good ledge 5.7 (50 feet).

P3. This is where the fun begins! Grunt (or use good technique) up wide crack in corner. You decide if left side in or right side in works better (I personally decided to donate skin on each side of my body equally) to next good ledge. 5.9++ (70 feet).

P4 Climb slightly tricky, thin moves to small roof. Exit left side of roof, and continue up sweet thin hands crack to bolts. Climb well bolted, short 5.11 crux or be a wanker and pull through (like my partner did-you suck! j/k) to another good belay ledge. 5.11c or 5.10-A0 (100 feet).

P5- Short crack pitch to top of wall (head right to another crack when rock quality deteriorates) 5.10a (50 feet).

Overall, this route had interesting climbing, excellent belay stances, all day sun, and a little OW climbing to keep the riff-raff away- what more can you ask for? Get out and climb it!

Location

Route is located to the west of Cynical Pinnacle. Take standard approach to Cynical, but head west before encountering first cliff band. Bushwack up and left until you reach right side of block tower. The route starts right of obvious chimney system that splits the face.

Protection

Single cams in small sizes up to #0.4 Camalot. Doubles #0.5 - #3 Camalot, with 1x #4 Friend and 1 x #6 Camalot optional but helpful and recommended for wide sections. The only fixed anchor we encountered was on the first pitch. There were no other fixed anchors on climb, making it best to walk off east toward Cynical Pinnacle (easy 20 minute downclimb).
Pitch 3 offwidth is easier to climb as a chimney until about 1/2 way up. Stemming is your friend for the last half. Feb 25, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I agree that a #6 C4 is not necessary. You could place it in one or two spots, but other gear is available, so it is hardly worth carrying. Feb 23, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Can easily link into 3 pitches with a 60m.
P1 To the base of the offwidth, 200ft.
P2 offwidth then up 40 feet of easy slab and chimney to the highest ledge, 110ft.
P3 Crux to the top, 130ft.

The crux is easy to avoid by stepping left....
A #5 C4 was nice for pitch 2 (we didn't need a #6 at all). Dec 16, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
Climbed to the top of Block Tower today and saw that the top anchor I posted about above is no longer there. You can descend to either the East or West, and going down to the West between Poe and Block seems to melt out fast even after a big storm. Feb 26, 2008
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
 
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
 
Kevin, we looked all over the place for the two nut rap off the top and couldn't find it. Thus, we hiked off. Can you give more details as to where that rap is? As for the Fixe chain anchor we didn't see it on the ledge on top of P3. It must have been further to the right (east). Feb 23, 2008
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
A couple comments on this route. Originally QB had 4 bolts on the first pitch, but when replacing the bolts I decided to remove the last three as they were easily clipped (and probably placed) from the crack to the right. You could have climbed the face to the left of the 5.8 chimney at mid 5.10 but few people would do this with 1/4" bolts with Leeper hangers for protection. Anyways this crack is well protected with a #6 Friend, and can also be protected with small wires and TCU's. If someone wants to replace these bolts I left the holes empty, but please climb the crack first.

The crux 4th pitch is as George said pretty contrived. The first bolt you reach is placed right next to a great pod, and was left with original hardware. The second and third were replaced, but if you step down after clipping the second and traverse left five feet you can climb a incipient 5.10 crack that's crux is level with the bolt to your right. This is more enjoyable than the crux mantle, and keeps the difficulty at 5.10 for the whole climb.

You can make two 150 foot rappels from the top of the route into the gully to the east which is a better option than descending from the summit if there has been snow recently. The first rappel is off of 2 old stoppers and needs new webbing, and the second is located to the far east side of the big ledge at the top of P. 3 and is nice Fixe chain anchors. Feb 22, 2008
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I recall the 11c crux being ultra-contrived. We just moved to one side of the bolt line where it was less steep and it wasn't too hard. I'm pretty sure we freed the crux pitch at 5.10-. Good route! Feb 22, 2008
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Dana,

Great description. I've been wanting to check this out for a while, and was wondering what condition the bolts were in. Thanks! Feb 22, 2008