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Melancholy Man

5.11, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 131 votes
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Lower Animal World
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Description

The crux is getting established over the roof.

Location

This is about 100 feet right of Free Willie at the right side of a low overhang. Lower from a two bolt anchor.

Protection

[Ten] draws and a long sling for a horn.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper moves on "Melancholy Man". Hard start, easy finish.
[Hide Photo] Upper moves on "Melancholy Man". Hard start, easy finish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aeon Aki

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must. Apr 12, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It could be good climbing once it cleans up more. May 1, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty. Jan 31, 2009
Matthew Kennedy
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] Buddy of mine snapped a large hold off of the lip of the roof. I dodged that falling bastard then decided to hop on the route. I had not been on the route prior to the breakage, but seems it could have gotten a bit harder. The route is fairly loose overall and I would not be surprised to see another get buggered out by unintentionally removing more rock. Remains still, a one-ish move wonder. Apr 12, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I think this is a good route, and while it may not be 5.11 for the duration, the top section still ticks in at 5.10c/d. I think the first bolt is way too high off the ground, so consider a stick clip. The problem is that the while the first bolt is just out of reach of clipping from the ground, the fall from this ledge would likely send you to the hospital. Would the FA agree to the addition of a bolt lower down to avoid this possibility? Apr 30, 2009
Bapgar 1
Out of the Loop
 
[Hide Comment] I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon. Mar 13, 2010
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
[Hide Comment] If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through. May 1, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I added a first bolt today, so a stick clip is not necessary. So the bolt count is now 10. Aug 9, 2011
Dean Kure
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Huge pieces fell of right at the start for me and then super choss pile halfway up. You can avoid the mess in the middle, but look for the nastiness. Not really recommending it. May 11, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Looks like a crucial foot hold broke off at the start making the route much harder. Sep 12, 2015
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] All the holds at the roof are solid now, the upper face has some good movement, and I did not find a loose flake. May 23, 2016
Mark E Dixon
Possunt, nec posse videntur
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't. Jul 1, 2016
Crackhead
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] So this route is hard, I think the moves to pull the roof are easily V3/V4. I'd give this 11+, and I'm usually a sandbagger. The upper section is .10a/b, and is still fun, but agreed there is suspect rock. Tread lightly and smart. First bolt is placed perfectly, no issues clipping this safely without a stick clip, and I'm 5'9". Sep 26, 2016
Charlie Izzz
Boulder
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Felt pretty hard for .11b... would also comment that there is a mini-crux of about .10c near the middle. Definitely not 5.9 as others have commented.

Hard onsight, easy redpoint. Nov 4, 2019
Matt B
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This is not 5.11a any way that I can tell as the newest guidebook suggests. I flailed on this thing for a while before giving up, then onsighted Animal Magnetism (5.11c). Seems very inconsistent with other routes in the area. Nov 9, 2019
DPug
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route that deserves more stars. The start is somewhat awkward but kinda fun after your figure it out. Really enjoyed the climbing on the upper section. May 31, 2022
Taylor S
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] After apparently a lot of holds being broken off the start, what remains is a remarkably technical first set of moves to get established. There is beta for at least two interesting ways to get up over the roof. It's now decently well-protected with a bolt closer to the ground, but use caution, and make sure your belayer is completely with you as you work to the second and third bolts. What follows is still, I think, a very good route, probably around the 10b/c level with one very fun upper crux. Jul 5, 2022
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] After climbing this today, it's obvious that the crux right off the ground has gotten much harder since the hold break circa 2012. It's solidly 5.11+ nowadays and possibly harder depending on your reach. If it wasn't possible to downclimb and rest in the process of figuring out the very low-lying crux, even 5.11+ might be a massive sandbag for the onsight, because you really can't see the holds you're working with as you attempt to crank over the small roof at the start. Anyway, a fun and worthwhile challenge at the start culminates in fun and relatively easy climbing to the top, though as some have mentioned there's a bit of loose rock, followed by an interesting 5.10c/d crux on more solid stone. Feb 13, 2024