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Loosen Up

5.10b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 150 votes
FA: Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll (July - 1992)
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Global Village
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

A fun route. However, be ready. Moderately overhung with generous holds, it lulls many into thinking it's a typical RRG jughaul...only to be spanked near the top.

Location

Located almost at the extreme east end of Lady Slipper-Global Village. Follow trail along crag past several bolted sport routes to a corner. Loosen Up ascends the steep face JUST LEFT of this corner (see photo).

Protection

6 bolts.
Anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching crux (circa 2003).
[Hide Photo] Approaching crux (circa 2003).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
[Hide Comment] Difficult finish that dishes out a pump May 23, 2012
Dustin Stephens
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] New SS bolts as of 8/2012 Aug 24, 2012
dopus
 
[Hide Comment] Anchors are rusty as hell but bolts are good. Three anchors (two quicklinks, one chain). Middle quicklink is rusty and grooved. Can equalize between all three with draws if not confident . Rap through right quicklink and left chain.

First and second clip easy some scouting, runout between 2-3, and last to anchors. Get your head straight for the push to the anchors. Feb 19, 2017
Samuel Hartman
Columbus, OH
[Hide Comment] Careful belaying, 5' cliff behind you. Aug 5, 2019
[Hide Comment] Anchor bolts are still good. Chain still is rusty. A newer quicklink has been added to the middle anchor bolt. I ran my rope through all 3 anchors for the rappel. I would also recommend a stick clip. The first moves aren't particularly hard, but with the drop off right behind the belay and the slight overhang of the climb I didn't feel comfortable going up without being on belay first. Oct 21, 2019
Trice Sweet
Flowery Branch, GA
[Hide Comment] Two distinct cruxes for me: between the second third bolt and a pumpy crimpey finish. Fun movement, all around amazing climb. May 29, 2021
Jake Sankari
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] You can't jug haul slopers and crimps - get a little mobile thru the low and high cruxes to turn poor holds into great ones. There's also at least two kneebars. One bomber kneebar low and a meh one higher up. Dec 4, 2023