Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chris Schmick and Greg Thomas (sport) Andy Boone and Dan Caldwell (trad)
Page Views: 4,268 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jon Richard on Feb 19, 2008 with updates from Ben May
Admins: chris tregge, Dave Hug

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Overhung the whole way. Make awkward hard moves to full body rest 20' feet up. Take a deep breath and climb the steep crack using jams and face holds to a pumpy and slightly run-out finish above bomber gear. The route is called "Who Needs Friends" because it was bolted. IMHO I think it climbs nicely as a trad route.

Protection

Bring a large piece (#4 or #5 camalot) for the beginning and then varied sizes the rest of the way (yellow alien through #3 camalot) or just clip the 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris Prewitt
  5.11+
Chris Prewitt  
  5.11+
The crux comes early and you get a full lay-down rest after. Honestly, this feels more like 11+ but I'm probably just stirring the nest. Terrific jugs almost the whole way so it's all about endurance. Did the first gear onsight and skipped the last bolt/placement. Heard that the last undercling popped, which would make things a bit different. Jul 21, 2008
Aaron Brouwer
Winchester, KY
 
Aaron Brouwer   Winchester, KY
 
Agreed, great gear lead. And anyone else doing it, don't bother trying to get something in at the top, there's really nothing worth while...skip it and fall into the air if you pump out. And the undercling did break, but about half of it is still there and I didn't fell that it was any harder. .11+ is right, although if you botch the beginning boulder prob at all, it's probably .12. Nice onsight crispy. Jan 13, 2009
This route (as of fall 2010) now has permanent chain draws on all but the first bolt. I don't know who hung them there, but I'm assuming it's to encourage people to get on one of the most popular routes at the falls. It goes at 12a in the Jackson falls guidebook, but it doesn't feel like that if you take the huge rest at the bottom. If you're climbing it sport, just bring a boulder pad and you can skip the first bolt (or placing huge gear) and save some trouble. Sep 12, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Chains have been removed (thanks). Undercling for clipping kinda sucks now but the are nice holds just below the bolts to clip from. Oct 20, 2010