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DWI

5.10a/b, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > Southern Comfort Wall
Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the face past a couple of bolts up to the small roof. Nice holds above the roof make for fun climbing. Above the roof move right placing pro in cracks. Clip another bolt and then finish straight up and slightly left through discontinuous cracks and face climbing.

Location

This route is the next to last route on the right end of the wall way uphill. Identify it by finding the bolts on the face before the small roof.

Protection

3 or 4 bolts and small to medium gear in between to chains for an anchor. Rappel the route on a single 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

DWI, spring 1995
[Hide Photo] DWI, spring 1995
Ben Nadler rappelling. The starting bolts leading up to the roof are visible in the photo.
[Hide Photo] Ben Nadler rappelling. The starting bolts leading up to the roof are visible in the photo.
Leo heads for the crux<br> DWI (5.10-)
[Hide Photo] Leo heads for the crux DWI (5.10-)
George finishing up the route after we squeezed just one more route in before sunset.
[Hide Photo] George finishing up the route after we squeezed just one more route in before sunset.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] I felt this route to be a fairly bold lead past the last bolt. This may be because I trended right after that bolt and didn't find any pro (well, a marginal nut in a tiny slot) for 20 ft of face climbing. Next time I'll head more to the left, although I don't recall seeing anything more promising over there. Dec 9, 2008
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I agree with Aaron - the route felt bold after the last bolt. It's tempting to climb right because the climbing looks easier but if you go straight up on thin flakes about 10 feet there is a horizontal slot that takes a yellow or red Camalot C3 (I plugged both in). Not having this beta made for some pretty exciting climbing. Without that gear you'd be facing a huge whipper if you fell near the top. Feb 27, 2011
Ian Katz
Sedona, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] A Classic! a little easier than Best Bitters, but equally technical and bold. The straight up from the bolt beta, is right on and the horizontal takes bomber gear right when you want it the most. Feb 25, 2018
Kevin Enriquez
Anchorage, AK
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Stuck to the left side of this route. There are additional bolts above the roof. The crux was definitely past the roof on this interesting crimp crack area where three bolts are very closely placed. Not sure if this should be considered a totally separate route than the mixed line on the right. Nevertheless, it’s a fantastic climb that is far more difficult than it looks from the bottom. Nov 24, 2019
Karl R. Kiser
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] If there are several bolts to the left (above the roof), it sounds as if you are on DTs. It started to the right of DWI, crossed DWI and went up a crack face climb at easier 5.11. The FA (thinking Mike Head & Mark Motes) used only gear but was really closer to R/X given the poor pro. Nov 24, 2019