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Routes in Split Rock

Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Side of the Moon V6 7A
Johnson Arete V4 6B
Johnson Problem V7 7A+ R
Split Decision TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vaino Problem V4 6B
Type: Boulder
FA: Jeff Johnson
Page Views: 1,714 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Haven't done it so can't describe it - to anyone who has done it: please post a description in the comments and I'll move them here.

Location

Facing north side of Split Rock; left edge of right wall of the chimney.

Protection

Pad and spotter

Photos

Mikey Wally
Los Angeles, CA
  V4
Mikey Wally   Los Angeles, CA
  V4
another piece broke off the arete. was not there when it happened but you can visually tell. it doesn't effect the climb much. Oct 22, 2017
Hold broke on the arete, I was with Mikey. I believe it still goes but at a lower grade probably. The break caused an incut that can probably be used as a crimp now. I didn't get to climb it because the broken part was still dirty and super sandy. Apr 3, 2017
Mikey Wally
Los Angeles, CA
  V4
Mikey Wally   Los Angeles, CA
  V4
a hold broke today, no foul play was involved. homie was standing on it and it just broke off. Apr 1, 2017
Brad Alexander
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Brad Alexander   Costa Mesa, CA
 
vimeo.com/168578602 May 29, 2016
Rick Hill
la crescenta, ca
  V4+
Rick Hill   la crescenta, ca
  V4+
at this point with my climbing i wouldn't be able to hold on to a v6 this has to be v4...the top out just takes gusto or stupidity. (all holds are clean by now besides top out "damn lichen") Feb 9, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Thanks for the beta Rob. Dec 22, 2009
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
  V5
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
  V5
Sent this today. Stand by my original thoughts that it is pretty soft for V6. Maybe V5. Yes the top is kind of funky and a bit scary, but that doesn't make the move any harder.

Chris -> DESCRIPTION: Sit start with left hand on the arete and right in the hueco. Use toe hooks, heel hooks, or campus strength to move the left up the arete and the right to the slopey side pull and pocket side pull higher. Get your feet up and work your way left to get both hands on the arete. Finish up while trying not to slip on the lichen. Good fun. Nov 17, 2009
dan michels
boulder, CO
 
dan michels   boulder, CO
 
V6 sounds about right to me. the top out is kinda wierd and scary Aug 1, 2009
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
  V5
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
  V5
The second right hand hold has broken and now is much more positive and needs some cleaning as of 4/27/2009. Won't give it a grade as I haven't topped it out. Pretty sure the grades here are wrong, too high. Apr 27, 2009