PRINT: Rock Climb Razor's Edge, Sandia Mountains (West Side)

Razor's Edge

5.10, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Alam and Roumph
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountain… > Pinnacle Valley > Anvil

Access Issue: SANDIA CREST CLOSURE ALERT - Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains is under a closure order. Details

Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains will be under a closure order so the Forest Service can complete two different projects. The first project is an extensive "fuel reduction project" and the second is the demolition/remodeling of the whole upper parking lot and crest house. The Crest Road and all parking areas above the 10k parking lot will be closed in addition to the 140 acres of forest that will be under going the fuel reduction work. The closure will be enforced from April 30, 2026, at 6 a.m. through January 15, 2027, at 6 a.m., unless rescinded. You can find the official area closure order 03-03-05-26-02 on the forest website, where it describes the parking areas and trails that the agency will close at: fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/alerts. For more information visit fs.usda.gov/r03/cibola/news… or contact the Sandia Ranger District Office at 505-281-3304.

Description

This 4 pitch route climbs the lower face of the Anvil to connect with the striking SW arete - crack before finding in a right facing dihedral. P1 and P3 and P4 are very nice. P3 is "Sandia at its worse" - blocky and loose. Can do P3 and 4 for a nice 5.9 outing.(See Topo)

P1 (***) start at base of clean face in dihedral that forms the left side of a distinct petestal. Climb up and then move left to arete to a small ledge, step right back (5.10 crux) to arete and follow up to 2 bolt belay.

P2 Short pitch: loose and blocky - aiming for the base of the stunning crack on the arete. Has a tendecy to ruin the rest of the climb.

P3: climb this flake crack by lie backing for ~ 60 feet (5.8-) to the 2 bolt belay. Eats #4 Camelots - would be strenuous, except the flake has a perfect foot ledge every 10 feet to shake out and place pro.

P4: Climb Straight up from belay, (5.9) then drift left on a seam/ramp, until you can fight your way back to large right facing dihedral finishing on top where you rigged your first rappel.

Location

Located north of Hammer Time and south of the route Storm Rider(? - I am sure I have that name wrong) - Rap. #1 Rappel in to N/W facing dihedral (NO fixed gear - please remove slings on this top rappel when you finish route) - 200 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap #2 Rappel down arete through blocks to another 2 bolt anchor (180 feet). Rap #3 - 200 feet to gully defining face on climbers left. (We had another rappel off to the climbers right to reach the true bottom of this formation, but is not needed).

Protection

All natural pro - from small sliders to #4 Camelot. 2 bolt belays on 2 of rap stations

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo

Myself on the stunning flake at the start of Pitch 3. From across the canyon this feature looked like a 6-8 inch crack (OW), so we came mentally prepared for a major struggle, but were overjoyed to…

Tall Man Andy heading into the "unknown" on Pitch 1 of the Razors Edge. The crux is on the face directly above the 6 inch overlap seen above Andy....

At the base of the Anvil. Pitch 1 of the Razors Edge skirts the roofs (above my head and slightly to the right) before moving back left to gain the arete. Someone with more time and skill needs to…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alam

5.10

Two new shiny bolts now mark the top of the final pitch anchor of Razor'sEedge. So much for "keeping the visual impact low" by removing your upper rappel slings as originally described in the Razor write up.

I am too old and devious to bother chopping them (besides solid anchors are always welcome in the Sandias), so now you have an solid anchor for the first rappel of Razors Edge (RE).

Obviously someone has added (or is working) a new route in the area, but is using the same RE dihedral as a finish. Please provide details of any new routes in this area. Anything that will clean up these climbs. Aug 7, 2011