Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Anvil

Fistful of Steel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hammer Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Iron Age T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Razor's Edge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alam and Roumph
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alam on Feb 18, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This 4 pitch route climbs the lower face of the Anvil to connect with the striking SW arete - crack before finding in a right facing dihedral. P1 and P3 and P4 are very nice. P3 is "Sandia at its worse" - blocky and loose. Can do P3 and 4 for a nice 5.9 outing.(See Topo)

P1 (***) start at base of clean face in dihedral that forms the left side of a distinct petestal. Climb up and then move left to arete to a small ledge, step right back (5.10 crux) to arete and follow up to 2 bolt belay.

P2 Short pitch: loose and blocky - aiming for the base of the stunning crack on the arete. Has a tendecy to ruin the rest of the climb.

P3: climb this flake crack by lie backing for ~ 60 feet (5.8-) to the 2 bolt belay. Eats #4 Camelots - would be strenuous, except the flake has a perfect foot ledge every 10 feet to shake out and place pro.

P4: Climb Straight up from belay, (5.9) then drift left on a seam/ramp, until you can fight your way back to large right facing dihedral finishing on top where you rigged your first rappel.

Location

Located north of Hammer Time and south of the route Storm Rider(? - I am sure I have that name wrong) - Rap. #1 Rappel in to N/W facing dihedral (NO fixed gear - please remove slings on this top rappel when you finish route) - 200 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. Rap #2 Rappel down arete through blocks to another 2 bolt anchor (180 feet). Rap #3 - 200 feet to gully defining face on climbers left. (We had another rappel off to the climbers right to reach the true bottom of this formation, but is not needed).

Protection

All natural pro - from small sliders to #4 Camelot. 2 bolt belays on 2 of rap stations
Alam
 
Alam  
 
Two new shiny bolts now mark the top of the final pitch anchor of Razor'sEedge. So much for "keeping the visual impact low" by removing your upper rappel slings as originally described in the Razor write up.

I am too old and devious to bother chopping them (besides solid anchors are always welcome in the Sandias), so now you have an solid anchor for the first rappel of Razors Edge (RE).

Obviously someone has added (or is working) a new route in the area, but is using the same RE dihedral as a finish. Please provide details of any new routes in this area. Anything that will clean up these climbs. Aug 7, 2011