PRINT: Rock Climb Evil Sister, Smith Rock

Evil Sister

5.13b, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: Prep Watts 90, FFA Mike Stoger
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This rarely done line sits abandoned next to Chain Reaction. Often viewed as an "unpure" line due to a stem in between the first and second bolt. However, the stem only brings the route down a letter grade. Reachy movement on decent pockets leads you to the roof. Here you must gain a good pinch, clip, and deadpoint a small ergonomic nub. Healhook mantle your way to the chains.

Location

Left of Chain Reaction

Protection

Four bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Attacking the roof on Evil Sister

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CritConrad
Bend, OR

A good (albeit sharp and short) little power route. Expect hard and powerful precision moves to pockets with no real rest. A redpoint crux getting established onto and clearing the roof will make sure that people with only bouldering levels of endurance will still have to work hard to send. All put together felt like a low-percentage (for me) V8, recommended to those who have done all the other better 13- routes in the park. Apr 21, 2019

ginger

If the second to third bolt feels impossible; it might be that the description of a “stem” is not over towards chain reaction but over to the completely separate column/wall feature behind and left of you. Feels kinda “off” but makes it easier. May 7, 2019

Sam Hanslits

Super fun bouldery moves on positive holds! A long reach between pockets could be frustrating for shorter folks. I never used the stem while trying this. Sep 24, 2020