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Routes in Main Wall

Crawdaddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pond Scum S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tea and Strumpets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brent McDaniel
Page Views: 1,254 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 17, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Climb up past an overhang to a stance below the roof. Step left and pull the roof at the corner on good holds. Continue up the face to anchors.

Location

The second pair of bolted routes when approaching the cliff from the trail that crosses below the falls. The left climb is Tea and Strumpets, the right climb is Crawdaddy.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors

Photos

Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
 
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
 
I have climbed this route a number of times and never seen side loading at the second bolt (just under the first, smaller roof). Many of my friends have fallen at that bulge move without consequence... Although perhaps we climb it differently, which would lead to the rope in a different place... Apr 19, 2014
Matthew Bishop
Birmingham, Alabama
 
Matthew Bishop   Birmingham, Alabama
 
Bolts very poorly placed. The placement of the second bolt allows for a side-loading of a draw - drastically decreasing its safety factor (<7 KN). Bolts above the little roof are equally poor in placement, and yield excessive drag. The bolts should be repurposed to a much clean line either to the right or left. If you are looking for a warm-up route climb the one just to the right it's call crawdaddy (10a). Nov 26, 2013
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
 
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
 
In my opinion, the bolting is a little bit odd, but not cuz it's hard to clip, more because of rope-drag issues. Definitely don't go having partners topdog it on your best rope, that's for sure. Easy warm up if you are headed to the White Wall. Nov 14, 2013
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Led this on gear last weekend. Protects pretty well. May 18, 2013
ClassiCityCreeper Adams
Athens, GA.
5.10a
ClassiCityCreeper Adams   Athens, GA.
5.10a
Im Avg. Height and had no problems with any of the clips, 2nd clip is super fun. Soft imo Oct 18, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10b/c
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10b/c
It's way left of the climbing line. My buddy who led the route couldn't clip it til he was above the bolt. Jul 23, 2009
yevquest
Southeast,US
yevquest   Southeast,US
I don't remember anything odd about the bolting. What's wrong with the last bolt? Jul 23, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10b/c
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10b/c
The start is pretty tough, so stickclipping the first bolt is a good idea.

The last bolt (just above the roof) is very poorly placed. Jul 18, 2009
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Nice warm-up for 10's. Nicely protected. Oct 30, 2008