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Routes in Three Bears

Any Major Dude S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Any Minor Dude TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Baby Bear TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creative Germs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dude on the Corner TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Every Major Dudette TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gentle Ben TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldilocks TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honey Pot TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howdy Dude TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Bear TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papa Bear TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,808 total, 24/month
Shared By: EricD on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This route is pretty straightforward until you get to the roof. Then it's a hand jam and a long reach to a jug in the middle of two cracks. Some fancy footwork (a toe jam and a heel hook) will get you to the top. The guidebook rates this as a 5.9, which is way off. Count on something harder.

Location

This route begins on the left-most of the three cracks that are Papa, Mama, and Baby (left to right, respectively).

Protection

top rope

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This climb is very leadable, there is pretty solid gear. It is not straightforward down low- look back into some of the crevices you use for hands. The roof takes camalot #5, #2, or #.5. A #4 might work but I didn't try it. Mar 13, 2017
The chalk-marked hold on the left edge of the roof is LOOSE! It may still hold for a while, especially if you grab nearer the wall (imagine the bottom scoop of a J being the more stable bit), but someone is going to crank on the far edge, and be in for a dangerous surprise. This is a larger rock, so I'm urging CAUTION on this route. Skip that hold or give it up. May 15, 2014
Rob Lilley
Greensboro, NC
Rob Lilley   Greensboro, NC
Is this leadable on trad gear? It's listed as a TR but it looks feasible, if a little spicy lower down? Aug 15, 2012
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it. Oct 18, 2008