Type: TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,729 total · 22/month
Shared By: EricD on Feb 15, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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This route features a well-chalked crack with polished footholds which can provide less friction than expected.  This middle crack is the most pronounced of the three.  During hot, humid summer days the hand holds often feel greasy.  After climbing the crack move left several feet and prepare to pull the roof 3-4 ft. right of the Papa Bear roof.  Kelley's (1994) description "Climb the middle crack then step left to an awkward roof."  It is alternatively named Middle Bear.  Kelley rates it 5.10d.


There are three routes on the main Three Bears' wall:  Papa Bear, Mama Bear and Baby Bear, in that order when facing the wall.  On left side of these three routes is the moderate Goldilox 5.6 and to the right is Gentle Ben, which has several variations and rides the outside corner of this wall.  Gentle Ben now features 5-6 sport bolts.  From the ground the only visible anchors are those of Baby Bear, which are on the face above the rightmost crack.  All of these routes feature their own dedicated stainless steel bolts.

This wall runs parallel to the main hiking trail which runs along the base of the climbing walls.  Bear right when descending the stone steps of the Three Bears gully to find this short orangish wall.  This gully is marked with brown signs at the top and bottom.  This is the principal approved access point for getting to the base of the climbs at Pilot Mountain.


Top-rope.  This route has its own dedicated set of bolts (installed 2019), one on either side of the cleaved roof 3-4 feet right of the Papa Bear roof.  Above these (behind these) are three bolts.  The leftmost two (when facing the rock) are used to set Papa Bear. The rightmost bolt of the three can be used as a personal anchor while setting Mama.  The pine tree that used to be on this mid-way ledge died and has been removed, cut flush.  One has to descend approx. 15 ft. via an obvious abbreviated gully to access these bolt anchors, watch out for washed down loose debris.