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Routes in Cash Wall

Amandla S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Awethu S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cash in the Vault S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chump Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forty Two and No Rinkhals S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funny Money S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Guns in the Vault S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Money Changers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Money for Nothing S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nickel & Dime S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Inch Short S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Payment in Pump S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wad of Dead Presidents S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Don Goodhue, 1989
Page Views: 2,287 total, 19/month
Shared By: Brandon Schirm on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Either start from the ledge, or belay from below and scramble up to the ledge, then follow up the clips and crimps on the right wall of the dihedral finishing on black streaked stone.

Location

This is next to Payment in Pump on the Cash Wall.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Worked this yesterday and completely agree with @monomaniac. "Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless."

Maybe this one's a good candidate for a "variation" add-on route/description...
  • Cash In the Vault, 12b [description].
  • Cash In the Vault Direct, 13a.
"In classically contrived Shelf style, going direct and completely eliminating the crack and sidewall to the left bumps the grade and quality of this one up to 13a."

Pretty psyched to go back after working a bunch of the moves on the direct line and wouldn't even consider taking the tick unless going that way. In the center crack at the start, I don't come close to using the left side wall at all or "flagging", so I'm not sure of the reference there.

!!! Heads up !!! Bolt 4, left hand gaston flake for clipping sounds super hollow (just after the sloper pinch crimp going from the hoizontal). Please pull down, not out. I hope I can get back to it before it busts off. Dec 11, 2016
Darryl Roth  
 
I belayed Dave when he made the FA. He didn't use the crack. I'll defer to the truth of the top statement by Monomaniac... "Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless." Feb 24, 2015
Mike to the B
  5.12d
Mike to the B  
  5.12d
Perfect shelf crimping on some interesting, marble-esque limestone ... only wish it was another 50ft! I'd love to claim the 13a, but after dispatching on only three tries (using the crack)...I just couldn't, especially compared to crimpy 12+'s like Power Bulge (in the Flats).

That being said, I also tried the direct finish and the final 3 moves (past the two pockets at the 5th bolt) are significantly harder than any 13a I've ever been on. If I had to guess, I'd say the direct finish clocks in at more at 13b/c territory.

In any case, just my opinion, and great route nonetheless. Feb 16, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
I'd say just downgrade the route if you think it's not 13a with the crack, but this isn't gym climbing...cracks are on! If it's the most obvious way and the point of least resistance, maybe it should just be 12c or 12d now then! Jan 23, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
So, I assume Will bolted this route, since he seems to know what's on and what's not. Crack on the left is fair game in my book. Sep 4, 2013
dancesatmoonrise
  5.12d
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.12d
Agree with Curt; great first 13a, but soft. I wasn't climbing at the 13 level when we did it in 1999, so while confidence-inspiring, it probably goes at 12c or 12d. Jul 17, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route! Maybe a little soft. Who knows? I think this would be an awesome "first" shelf road 13a, as it was for me. Fun movement on some ever so tiny holds. Branching out left is a fairly logical finish at the top, I haven't seen anyone go straight up. I guess if you want to add another letter grade stay on the upper headwall and don't use the huge opposing wall and jugs in the crack. Great fun! May 7, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This has some great rock & cool moves, but it's ridiculously contrived even by Shelf standards. Curious to know why they didn't just put the bolts in the middle of the face. I suppose they wanted the crack in the right face to be on, but the dihedral crack & left wall to be off. Kinda hard to lieback a crack when you can't flag, because there's an enormous wall in your way, which, by the way, you can't touch because it's "off". Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blinders, but trying to establish a consensus grade on something like this is pointless. Apr 3, 2010