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Routes in Javelina Cave and the A Frame

"O" Dyno, The V7 7A+
4 Finger Bush V1 5
A-Frame Crimps V7-8 7B
Arete, The V5 6C
Bad Pinch, Bad! V6-7 7A+ PG13
Block Pinch V1 5
Bush of Evil V5 6C
Drilled Pockets V4-5 6B+
F in A Dyno V6 7A
Guy V2-3 5+
Hueco Placebo V6 7A
Javelina Center V1-2 5
Javelina Left V6 7A PG13
Javelina Right V4 6B
Lip Traverse East V0+ 4+
Little Guy V7 7A+
Maximum Value V9-10 7C+
No Pockets V8 7B
Other Warm-up V0 4
Pocket Stuffer V7 7A+
Rails, The V6 7A
Silverbell Lip Traverse V2 5+
Tage Der Schurzen V10 7C+
Underframe Traverse V7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,042 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tommy Wilson on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Just right of The Arete sits an obvious crimp line. Start with a left hand on a good sidepull and a right hand on slopey sidepull, move to the obvious crimp, and find a way to the top. One of the few hard boulder problems in Tucson that stays in the shade. Try starting matched on the left sidepull for a bit more oomph and bit more directness.

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Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V6
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V6
Sorry to bust balls! This is a good problem but does not go anywhere near V8. It's v6 max... unless maybe it's mid summer! Out of town V6 climber (me) did it in a few tries. Dyno or crimp all the way, same grade in my opinion, I did both. Bring your footwork skillz, this is technical face climbing. Mar 27, 2013
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  V7-8
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  V7-8
jump to the top and skip the bad hold... no need for unnecessary pain. Feb 8, 2010
Trey Lewis
Glendale, Az
  V8
Trey Lewis   Glendale, Az
  V8
I have sent the problem you are talking about. very tough. i think it might be right between V8 and V9. Sep 9, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Tommy, some very strong and dedicated boulderers spent quite a bit of time at Silverbell back in the late 80s. Bob Murray, Frank Abell, John Gault, George Smith. Even Mike Head showed up a couple of times.
You can be sure that problem has been done. If it's the one I'm thinking of, Murray did it for sure, and probably the others too. Feb 19, 2008
Tommy Wilson
Tucson, AZ
 
Tommy Wilson   Tucson, AZ
 
any locals know if this has been sent, has a name, etc? it's really too good to sit nameless as "that one problem across from the terribly drilled pockets". Feb 19, 2008