Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,813 total · 13/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A slopey lip traverse. Sit start with both hands matched on the lowest part of the lip. Traverse left on friction-dependent holds until you can grab the back arete and mantle over onto the face and topout.

Due to aggressive brushing, the holds are becoming more polished.


The lowest boulder in Round Pond. As you walk into the boulders, it is the first one on the left and has a hueco visible near the top.




Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Has anyone done the traverse that goes right from the start point? Mar 13, 2010
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
I'd like to know the "official" starting position of the hands on this problem. Does it start:
1) On the crimp on the face (chalked in the photo of Lily above)
2) directly above said crimp
3) where Lily's right hand is in the photo above Nov 19, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO

Since no one else has answered your question, I will attempt to.

Having climbed this problem a few times, I would say that the most logical starting place is matched on the lowest sloper that actually has some texture to it. (So, basically where Lily's right hand is) There are two miserable, glassy slopers to the right. I've done it from those holds as well, and it is perhaps a little bit harder but definitely not better. I would say that if you start matched on the hold suggested above, the climb is low to mid grade v5. If you start on the holds to the right, the climb is hard v5.

So, as in most climbing, it's up to you. Hope that helps. May 27, 2013
Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
matthew- i've heard that the traverse that goes the other way is unsent and really hard, v8 or something like that. Jun 21, 2013
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Traverse to the right has been sent and is probably V4. There are large underclings that make it much easier than it looks. Aug 27, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Yah, Bryce is spot on. I finally got around to trying the right variation the other day and it's definitely no harder than v4 and is definitely easier than 'Labrador Dreams' proper.

The difficulty will vary slightly depending on where exactly you start, but you basically start just to the right of the lowest part of the boulder (just left of where the underclings start if I remember correctly). I didn't use the underclings at all. I just pulled off the ground threw a heel on and bumped along on the slopers until reaching the good holds out right.

Pretty straight forward and not anywhere near as good as its neighbor since it is kind of lowball and butt draggy. Sep 16, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
Gave this a good chalking and almost sent today. Tis the season for slopers! Sep 23, 2013