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Routes in The Streambed Boulders

Cup of Tea V3 6A PG13
Down In It V0 4
Downward Dog V1+ 5
Due North V2 5+
E-Z Cheese V2 5+
Feel The Pull V1 5
Fritz's Demise V0 4
King Arthur V2- 5+
Kissing Cousins V0 4
North Slab V1 5
Provia V6 7A
Riverbed, The V4 6B
Seinfeld V2+ 5+
Swiss Cheese V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,195 total, 10/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

While most people simply walk past this slightly overhanging arete, it deserves more love than it gets. The movement is fun, the foot beta has a techy nature to it, and there are numerous ways to unlock the sequence. Sit start with your right hand pinching the arete with the help of a good thumbcatch. For your left hand you can either use the bad sloper or the small razor blade. Pull off the ground and stand up into the left hand undercling. Slap up the arete, work your feet, and then choose your adventure...

Method 1 - Dyno to a crimp a few inches below the lip and then topout on jugs.

Method 2 - Stick a small sloper with your left hand and bump your right up to the good rail. Topout on jugs.

Method 3 - Stay tight and move your left hand into a tiny sidepull, then bump your right to the good rail. Topout on jugs.

Maybe it's the rock sticking out of the ground that annoys people. It's actually not in the way.

Location

On the other side of the tree from the problem EZ Cheese. There is usually chalk on the starting sloper/crimp.

Protection

Pads

Photos

Graham O.  
 
Very fun Jul 7, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
I believe it's just an unnamed v1-ish climb. Oct 19, 2015
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Can anyone tell me what the boulder problem is to the right (approx 5 ft) of Provia? I do not see it on this site and it seems worthy. Its kind of crimpy the crux is low and its very fun...thanks! Oct 19, 2015
Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
 
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
 
I stumbled upon this line without any idea of what it was or what people used for starting holds. I ended up going with a stand start with both hands on underclings. This skips a left hand move, but adds a somewhat tricky move out to the arete. Seems like this would be about the same difficulty as the original start position. Nov 23, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
I would say that if you stayed more or less to the left of the arete, then you probably did. If you moved right into the corner, then that is probably a bit easier. I've always thought that this line felt pretty natural and uncontrived, though I suppose I could see someone pulling up into the corner. If that doesn't answer your question, you might have to ask Bryce, the resident guru, what is 'allowed'. :)

Edited: To clarify, the large detached block to the right is not 'on' for this climb. I figure that is self explanatory but perhaps it is not for some people. Oct 28, 2012
Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
 
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
 
I'm not sure if I sent this. I rocked over on the foot and matched on the arete, moving to the crimp and then another and then the topout jug. Oct 28, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
I was over by EZ cheese two days ago and was re-scoping provia out when I noticed the pinch/crimp that Mike mentioned below has finally ripped off and is no more - not that I had any interest in grabbing that hold ever but I know a few people will need to find new beta to climb this problem again. Oct 25, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Agree with Bryce. This problems is actually quite good, with enjoyable movement no matter which way you do it (I've climbed them all). Sep 22, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Footage of this problem starts at 2:12
vimeo.com/45213273 Jul 4, 2012
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Good thing there are at least 2 other ways to climb this problem without using that hold that aren't any more difficult - if it does snap off, at least people will revert back to the beta that doesn't involve pinching a razor blade. Nov 14, 2011
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
Did this route yesterday and the small undercling pinch/crimp in the middle is seriously threatening to snap off. I would say climb this and that hold tenderly. On a side note if that hold does break this climb will get much harder. Nov 12, 2011