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Routes in The Split Boulder

Anorexorcist V7- 7A+
Bones to Bits V2-3 5+
Bulemia V5 6C
Confident Man V11 8A
Flakes of Life V1-2 5
Halcyon V11 8A
Heart of Darkness V12 8A+
Jaded V1 5
Morgue, The V3 6A
My Little Pony V9-10 7C+
Outback V2-3 5+
Rio's Problem V7+ 7A+
Stegasaurus V9 7C
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,693 total · 13/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Although it doesn't look like much, this short problem climbs great and is usually dry. Sit start on the left arete with your left hand on the arete, and right hand on a crimp. Pull up and bump out right to the vertical pinch/crimp, work your feet and make a hard match. A strong core, the right foot beta, and use of the thumb catch might make the move feel more realistic. Move right to a slopey rail as a gaston. Use some technique to match the rail and move right to a crimp, before bumping up again with the right hand to a better crimp. Use the sidepull with your left hand to assist in reaching the jugs above. Alternately, from the rail, power up and left into the sidepull/undercling and fire out right for a better hold and the top.

The landing can be a bit muddy although the sticks will keep your pad rather clean.

Location

On a small boulder leaning against the Split Boulder and a tree.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
The beta I'm trying (suggested by a friend who sent using it) involves starting with hands crossed: right on the arete and left on the crimp. It also avoids matching on the skinny, vertical pinch, which I find fricking heinous. Aug 5, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
how does this beta go? i was trying the the other day and the vertical match was RIDICULOUS! when you start hands crossed where do you go after that? Nov 21, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
I wish I knew. This problem pwns me.

You can try hitting the pinch right hand, then bumping out to flat edge. The idea then would be left hand to the pinch, get your body out onto the face, then do something else and then something else and then top out. Seriously, I've got no good ideas. Nov 23, 2009
JEC
Lakewood, Colorado
JEC   Lakewood, Colorado
This video shows a footwork intensive solutiion for this problem. Working the pinch to matching the flat edge on the right is pretty stout too.
vimeo.com/27175816 Aug 1, 2011
Is there a cheater way to do this or something? After I got my right hand on the pinch I just cranked on my heel and grabbed a crimp up high with my left instead of matching and went to another crimp with my right hand and finished from there. It was SO easy, like V4 tops, that couldn't have been the 9 right?

In the video this guy goes far right then makes a big move with his left to a crimp which I think is the same one I get with my right hand before I finish, whats the point of the hard low way if you can just do the way I did? Nov 1, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Yes, this climb is enormously contrived. You have to ignore the good holds above the start and intentionally move right into a much more difficult sequence that essentially finishes the same as the easier, non-contrived variation. Extremely cool rock, very cool moves, but unfortunately very contrived. None of the guidebooks or the description here mention the contrived nature of the climb, so I can imagine that it's confusing to climbers that are newer to the area. Nov 1, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Once you figure out beta this little thing climbs very well, footwork makes a difference. Definitely worth climbing, and not so bad if shoulder strength is your forte! Sep 23, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Nice work Ian. In that case, I'm going to steal your beta for this line. Sep 23, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Thanks! Went something like this:

Good left toe low on the arete, first move right hand low on pinch, right toe on obvious edge, bump left hand to make room for left heel, left heel close, match the pinch, right hand flat down-pulling edge, work right foot way out right, left heel out toe low, kick right heel on the right arete, sink and flip left hand from gaston on pinch to pinching pinch with a good thumb catch, big right hand move to good edge, situate feet and chuck for huge jug.

Similar to Ethan Chase's beta in footwork, didn't like the toehook out right though, matching the pinch felt doable but a big compression move felt like it'd work for me better, crux for me is getting the right heel in and making the big move.

Lotta climbing in the 7 or so feet it is... Sep 23, 2015

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