Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: JMw, Dan Dezess, Chris LaFave (12-07)
Page Views: 1,646 total · 8/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
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Description Suggest change

1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140’

2. Shift belay about 100’ to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner. 3rd class.

3. Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge. 5.6 110’ [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay. 58m Cody Direct 5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]

4. Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney. Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of “Cody Direct.” 5.7+ 140’

Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge. 3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground.

Location Suggest change

To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100’ to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50’ down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.

Protection Suggest change

Include double cams to 3.5"

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Photos

My buddy Don and my son near the top of the unprotected 5.7 chimney that gets run out to the anchor tree. Pick the living one. First pitch is long and wandering. find the chimney! and bring a 60m, or two if you want to rap the route as safely as possible.
My buddy Don and my son near the top of the unp…
 1
My 8 year old son exiting the chimney at the top of pitch 3. We used the first ledge with the tree as belay #3 instead of continuing up to the next ledge. #4 goes up to the next ledge and go across to the buttress and just left. protect that swing as much as possible if you choose to use the tree instead. Fun!
My 8 year old son exiting the chimney at the to…
 1
Topo at the base of the route
Topo at the base of the route
 2
Marcy on the last pitch
Marcy on the last pitch
 0
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webster]
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave W…
 0
Original route. An easy access ramp diagonals down and right from the #2 to the ground.
Original route. An easy access ramp diagonals d…
 0

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