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Routes in Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)

(01) Chicken Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(03) Squeeze Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(05) Stoner Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
(06) Pagoda Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(08) Flyboys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(09) Chimney Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(10) Stembrosia T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Sarah T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Why Wouldn'tya? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: JMw, Dan Dezess, Chris LaFave (12-07)
Page Views: 631 total, 5/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140’

2. Shift belay about 100’ to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner. 3rd class.

3. Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge. 5.6 110’ [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay. 58m Cody Direct 5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]

4. Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney. Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of “Cody Direct.” 5.7+ 140’

Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge. 3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground.

Location

To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100’ to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50’ down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.

Protection

Include double cams to 3.5"
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
The chimney pitch (after the belay shift) and the variation crack pitch were quite good. Surprisingly good rock and all gear. Mar 6, 2013
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
Really enjoyed the direct finish up the crack! Mar 6, 2013