All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Lost Horse Area > Dairy Queen Wall > Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Toxic Waltz [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Tom Gilje & Mike Lechlinksi, 1990|
|Page Views:||763 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description [Suggest Change]
To the right of Pat Adams Dihedral is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.
Location [Suggest Change]
This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above Leap Year Flake, a good pitch in its own right. The formation is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.
Protection [Suggest Change]
At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored. No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.