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Potash Bong Hit
5.9+,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3 from 413
votes
FA: Jim Beyer
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Poop Alert!
Details
Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.
Description
Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.
This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.
Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.
Location
This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.
Protection
Singles BD .5 - 5, several 3's and 1 - 2 extra 2's. Apparently the main crack used to take 1's and 2's, but not so anymore.
![At the base of Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is the crack 15 feet left. These routes remain bone dry even when its pouring rain because of the 500 ft of over hanging rock above it.]()
[Hide Photo] At the base of Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is the crack 15 feet left. These routes remain bone dry even when its pouring rain because of the 500 ft of over hanging rock above it.
![Tim on top of the flake]()
[Hide Photo] Tim on top of the flake
![Almost to the offwidth]()
[Hide Photo] Almost to the offwidth
![Tim H at the top of Potash Bong Hit (below and left) and Static Cling (directly below and chalky) same achors.]()
[Hide Photo] Tim H at the top of Potash Bong Hit (below and left) and Static Cling (directly below and chalky) same achors.
![exiting the crack was the crux for me. There is an excellent rest after this.]()
[Hide Photo] exiting the crack was the crux for me. There is an excellent rest after this.
![finishing the splitter hand crack and into the funkier but easier climbing.]()
[Hide Photo] finishing the splitter hand crack and into the funkier but easier climbing.
![starting up the splitter hand crack 15 from the ground]()
[Hide Photo] starting up the splitter hand crack 15 from the ground
![Jam technique put on display by a rad dude who we met on Wall Street. This crowded crag yields new friends to those who are friendly.]()
[Hide Photo] Jam technique put on display by a rad dude who we met on Wall Street. This crowded crag yields new friends to those who are friendly.
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Snohomish, WA
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Broomfield, CO
Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki. Aug 13, 2010
Reno, NV
The only draw back (which is really a plus for wusses like me) is that it sets you up perfectly for a TR preview of the 4 star .11 line right next to it, dashing any hopes of an OS attempt.
But don't fret, red points are cool too. Nov 22, 2013
Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
CA
Tucson, AZ
Bloomington, MN
Salt Lake City, UT