PRINT: Climb The Four Pin Variation, Maple Canyon

The Four Pin Variation

WI4, Ice, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
FA: Brian Cabe and John Kortbawi 2/97
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Ice > Left Hand Fork Ice Cl…

Access Issue: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach Details

Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.

The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.

All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.

Description

Sometimes thin, sometimes the entire wall from Bowling Ball Head across the alcove is plastered in thick ice. Unusually steep. Around 90 feet of ice.

Location

To the right of Bowling Ball Head. Two bolt anchor located level with the Bowling Ball Head anchor, about 30 feet to the right of that route. Anchor is at the first no hands rest in a scoop on the rock face straight up the route. Anchor is bolts connected to Frost Draws connected to rapides (awesome, DK, thanks!).

Protection

Selection of screws based on ice thickness.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brian in SLC, his bad self, in all his glory, 2/97. On this day, the entire Engagement Alcove seemed plastered with thick ice wall-to-wall.