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Excalibur abbreviated
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2 R
Avg: 3 from 2
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 115 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Harvey T. Carter et al.,1971 |
| Page Views: | 305 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | -mn on Feb 5, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The original route on the Mongoose is called Excalibur and starts on the downhill (N.E.)side of the tower and faces the creek.That route is five pitches long and climbs the longest possible line on the formation.
The route described here is the abbreviated version of Excalibur and sneaks up the backside of the tower and climbs the last two pitches.Not sure if the pitch coming out of the saddle next to Sari is part of the original route.Faces South, Southeast.
Pitch 1 - Gain the saddle between Sari and Mongoose (above the windows).Traverse left around to the west side about 15-20 ft.Follow a shallow left facing corner which angles up and right.Belay at a big boulder-sling it or stuff cams up underneath it.The vertical gain on this pitch is only about 20' but you end up climbing more like 50' with the traversing.
Pitch 2 - Stand on the boulder and make a series of hook moves up and left.Yard through the short bolt ladder to a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.The start of this pitch is runout but there is a really thin pin scar where something might fit - 0 offset nut? 80'
Rappel - Rap 100' to the saddle then downclimb 15' or so, or take two ropes.
The route described here is the abbreviated version of Excalibur and sneaks up the backside of the tower and climbs the last two pitches.Not sure if the pitch coming out of the saddle next to Sari is part of the original route.Faces South, Southeast.
Pitch 1 - Gain the saddle between Sari and Mongoose (above the windows).Traverse left around to the west side about 15-20 ft.Follow a shallow left facing corner which angles up and right.Belay at a big boulder-sling it or stuff cams up underneath it.The vertical gain on this pitch is only about 20' but you end up climbing more like 50' with the traversing.
Pitch 2 - Stand on the boulder and make a series of hook moves up and left.Yard through the short bolt ladder to a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.The start of this pitch is runout but there is a really thin pin scar where something might fit - 0 offset nut? 80'
Rappel - Rap 100' to the saddle then downclimb 15' or so, or take two ropes.
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