Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 115 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Harvey T. Carter et al.,1971|
|Page Views:||472 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||-mn on Feb 5, 2008|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The route described here is the abbreviated version of Excalibur and sneaks up the backside of the tower and climbs the last two pitches.Not sure if the pitch coming out of the saddle next to Sari is part of the original route.Faces South, Southeast.
Pitch 1 - Gain the saddle between Sari and Mongoose (above the windows).Traverse left around to the west side about 15-20 ft.Follow a shallow left facing corner which angles up and right.Belay at a big boulder-sling it or stuff cams up underneath it.The vertical gain on this pitch is only about 20' but you end up climbing more like 50' with the traversing.
Pitch 2 - Stand on the boulder and make a series of hook moves up and left.Yard through the short bolt ladder to a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.The start of this pitch is runout but there is a really thin pin scar where something might fit - 0 offset nut? 80'
Rappel - Rap 100' to the saddle then downclimb 15' or so, or take two ropes.