Although this is essentially the first pitch to the Danglers, it is best treated as a separate route, since it's in far more frequently than the pillar is.

Start in a chimney slot with fat ice and two short steps up to a ledge. Pound in some bugaboos and launch onto the delicate headwall. This bit is short, steep, and tends to be somewhat unconsolidated; it is not physically difficult, but spicy. It rolls over onto easy slab leading to the big juniper belay tree.

This pitch is hidden from view from the highway, although the second pitch daggers are readily visible. It is in the shallow gully 100' below the Upper Danglers. It sits across the creek from the highway between the Wildfire Slabs and Ponderosa Falls. The best approach is from above. Follow the approach for Wildfire Slabs and hike along the open rim until above the daggers and rap in over them and then over the lower pitch.

Assorted length screws with a few stubbies/13cm. I pounded two bugaboos (#1 and #2 into the horizontal crack on the ledge below the headwall). Tree anchor.