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Routes in Central Gorge

Type: Ice, 85 ft, Grade II
FA: probably Trevor Bowman and Adam Gable 2/3/08
Page Views: 367 total · 3/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 3, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Although this is essentially the first pitch to the Danglers, it is best treated as a separate route, since it's in far more frequently than the pillar is.

Start in a chimney slot with fat ice and two short steps up to a ledge. Pound in some bugaboos and launch onto the delicate headwall. This bit is short, steep, and tends to be somewhat unconsolidated; it is not physically difficult, but spicy. It rolls over onto easy slab leading to the big juniper belay tree.

Location

This pitch is hidden from view from the highway, although the second pitch daggers are readily visible. It is in the shallow gully 100' below the Upper Danglers. It sits across the creek from the highway between the Wildfire Slabs and Ponderosa Falls. The best approach is from above. Follow the approach for Wildfire Slabs and hike along the open rim until above the daggers and rap in over them and then over the lower pitch.

Protection

Assorted length screws with a few stubbies/13cm. I pounded two bugaboos (#1 and #2 into the horizontal crack on the ledge below the headwall). Tree anchor.

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