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Routes in East Face - Lower

Hitchcock Gully 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
LHMW Bypass WI2+
Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3
Willard Slab Right WI2
Type: Ice, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,918 total, 75/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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89 Opinions

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Description

The climb is broken into the lower and upper Hitchock gullies with a pitch of easy hiking between the two. The lower pitch is often used to provide access to the many options of the east face slabs. The lower pitch is somewhat thin, moderate ice and snow to a 5.5 rock finish. Protect the top with slings on good trees. I would only give the first pitch one star if it were by itself, unless you are interested in moderate mixed climbing.

Be aware, especially later in the day, that P1 is the standard descent (rap) for climbers who have done Cinema and/or many of the climbs on the upper slabs.

The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a deep cleft. It feels like a miniature version of the Pinnacle gully in Huntington Ravine and though it is a full pitch feels way too short. This is a four star pitch for a moderate ice climber.

Location

Hike south on the train tacks, just after crossing the second bridge look for a post on the right. (There's a memorial cross here, if it isn't covered with snow.) Hike up a somewhat sketchy approach, depending on snow conditions. The start to the gully is obvious. The upper gully is directly above the lower, with 150ft or so between the two.

Protection

Short screws and slings for the first pitch, maybe some nut placements. Standard ice rack for the second pitch
adamsc
Cincinnati, OH
  5.5 WI2-3
adamsc   Cincinnati, OH
  5.5 WI2-3
Walk-off at the top is much better than rappelling back down. Super mellow walk on a really nice, established trail. The 5.5 portion of P1 can get verglas all over it and be ~PG13-ish depending on conditions but you can escape right to 5.easy. Jun 7, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
If anyone was wondering... 7/16/2011: Hitchcock Gully is not "in". :) and if you're looking for Across the Universe, the SHORT approach trail is further down the rail road tracks... hah! Jul 17, 2011
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.5 WI3-
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.5 WI3-
Earlier this year I noticed a pin on the rock traverse for the first time. I love that little bit of spice, it redeems the rest of the pitch! Mar 1, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I would agree with the statement in the description that the first pitch is some what less the stellar. In fact, I was kind of let down. Left Hand Monkey wrench to Upper Hitchcock is in my mind a superior climb. Feb 10, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.5 WI3-
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.5 WI3-
A threaded sling is on Lower Hitchcock protecting the mixed portion of the route. Fun climb! Feb 1, 2010