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Extra Otis

V11, Boulder, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Charley Bentley
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Morrison Boulders > Black Hole

Description

More like a route than a boulder problem, Extra Otis traverses the entire Black Hole from right to left.

Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole. Downclimb into the Tendinitis Traverse, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the Wisdom Simulator. Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the Wisdom Simulator, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.

Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge. Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.

Location

This boulder problem is located in the Black Hole.

Protection

A kneepad, and some crash pads.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

doug rouse
Denver, CO.
[Hide Comment] Greetings...FA. by Charlie Bentley...I believe that the problem is named after his dog. Anyway, one of many brutal, endurance pumpfests that exist. Try it with a pressure sensitve hook up to missle finish.... Jul 1, 2008
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
[Hide Comment] Last week I climbed a variation to Otis that takes the easiest path across the Black Hole, nothing is off, just don't touch the ground, right to left. I am sure its been climbed by the likes of Rufus or any of the other hard man/women locals, but since I have never heard of it, I have been calling it Easy Otis or Otis, the NASCAR edition V10 ish.

Here is a video of the beta:

vimeo.com/16315432 Nov 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] FA was Charley Bentley (correct spelling), from a line from "Henry: Portrait of a Serial Killer":

"Plug it in, Otis."

If you've had the misfortune to see this film, then you'll know what that means.... Nov 8, 2010
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Did a slight variation, Starting on the beginning of Air Jordan, I felt like the starting moves to the right were aggravating my elbow. Anyway, here is a stitched together video of all my little beta shorts from working it. Really great movement! Felt really good finally sticking the crux of wisdom all the way from the beginning, those 3 moves originally felt really stopper.


youtube.com/watch?v=WE3XKxJ… Oct 31, 2016