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Routes in Fossil Wall

3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Bones S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flight Of The Trilobite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fossil Fuel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Separation Of Cherts And Plate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfin The Reef S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 474 total · 4/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Start on a chossy, plant ridden ramp. Hike to where the ramp meets with the wall and clip the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt where you pull on some suspect looking rock and onto a fine ledge. From the ledge, you can clip the second bolt, the first two bolts are shared between Separation Of Cherts And Plate and Fossil Fuel.

From the second bolt, bust left. The best part of the climb is from here to the anchors! Sustained movement through a crack system takes you over an exciting roof crux. Pull the roof and clip the chains.

Location

Leftmost route on the wall.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchors

Lowering and Rapping Notes

The anchor is such that lowering off runs the rope over a sharp edge. Rapping off may minimize wear on your rope.

Photos

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Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
The roof is a 5.9 move. Their are ways to do it that make it feel like a V1, but the simplest way up is 5.9. The move feels insecure, but the rock above the roof is so abrasive I usually just crank up using slopers. Oct 2, 2013
Whit Storey
  5.9+
Whit Storey  
  5.9+
Great route. The crux to me was definitely at the roof right after the last bolt. The key is getting a strong hold on top with your right, and getting your left foot up on top of the roof (almost matching your left hand in a kinda sketchy pocket). It took a lot of commitment to make that move! Jul 14, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
For reference V1 equates to 5.11-, so if a route is 5.6 up to a V1 boulder problem (be it 1 move or 10 moves) then more 5.6, the route would be 5.11-. If the sections before and/or after are closer to the grade of the boulder problem, say 5.10 or so then the route would be harder to account for fatigue. Mar 17, 2009
HoseBeats
  5.9+
HoseBeats  
  5.9+
The mantel over the roof is pretty tricky for 5.9 It's around a V1ish move. Mar 16, 2009