Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,136 total · 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Sustained climbing for the first four bolts with great movemet. The crux comes after the 2nd bolt. Technical footwork get you past the thin crimpers to the better holds at the 3rd bolt. Work left, get up on the shield shelf, hitting some more small pockets. Finally reaching the rail that slants to the right, pause and slow down your breathing. A few more easy moves and clip the chains.

Location

On the ledge, look for the belayer bolt, that leads up the underside of the roof and up.

Protection

Bolts, Chain anchor. Stick clip the first unless your have it dialed. The wise belayer will stay tethered into the bolt to aviod getting drug off the ledge, and especially if the climber falls before the first bolt.

Beta Notes

This route can get wet and slick after it rains, especially when it is cold. Problem is the sloper up between second and third bolts that seems especially prone to slickness.

Ratings Notice

I loaded this route as a 12a. Actual rating is still in dispute. Originally, it was commonly referred to as an 5.11a, but that really seems soft. My source rated it as a 5.12a, and I have yet to meet someone else who has sent it. Climb it, let me know if you think this is too far out of line.

Photos

GummyBears
  5.12a
GummyBears  
  5.12a
I would agree 5.12a on this one. Difficult move off a crimper to a jug after the 2nd bolt solidifies the grade. Mar 16, 2009
HoseBeats
  5.12a
HoseBeats  
  5.12a
It could be 11d. The crux is short and once you make it to the bucket left of the traverse you can get all your juice back. The top isn't a gimme but the difficulty eases off for the last few bolts. Mar 16, 2009
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
I have climbed this yes... I second the 11d. Not technical enough for a face 12a but hard. Jan 31, 2011
Jerry432
odessa texas
 
Jerry432   odessa texas
 
I have to go with the 12a rating. Although the moves arent hard its sustained and i feel has crux shortly followed by strong move sequence Feb 24, 2013
Riffraff
  5.11d
Riffraff  
  5.11d
I'm not sure about this rating, I did it last week in a full body cast (resulting from a brutal go cart accident). I was able to make it to,the anchors using only my teeth, I've had problems with this method on anything over 11b. I did put sticky rubber on my K9's though, maybe that helped, who knows!! Mar 6, 2013
Jerry432
odessa texas
 
Jerry432   odessa texas
 
Yeah I remember that guy Riffraff out there. He kept saying he would get kicked out of high school for not wearing a shirt, then the school would call him right back so he could coordinate a fashion show! Although he did do that route pretty easliy.... who knows I still feel a soft 12 is the verdict. Mar 7, 2013
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
11d does not feel completely unreasonable, but this felt harder than any other 12a or 11d I've been on at LCC. Very fun route that stays on you for the first four bolts. Mar 27, 2016
Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
  5.11d
Jason Carlson   El Paso, TX
  5.11d
I could see it go either way, I mostly climb at the tunnel and most (all?) of the 12a's there seem harder than this though, but perhaps I've gotten stronger. To be fair on my only trip (so far) to LCC the only climbs harder than 5.10 i tried were this and Flying Cows, and Flying Cows didn't seem insanely more difficult; I sent this second go and almost did the same with Flying Cows. The crux reach to the crimps below the traverse didn't seem too difficult but I did use a potentially ankle breaking heel toe cam in the jug below, so maybe people were avoiding doing that for good reason. Apr 25, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.12a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.12a
The Tunnel crowd grade routes a little bit differently than LCC. I've heard most of the 12a's and 12b's are a little soft compared to the Tunnel. Some have suggested Flying Cows to be more 12a than b, even further, that they found Swept Away to be harder than Flying Cows. I like to think you are just stronger than you used to be ;) Apr 26, 2017
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.12a
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.12a
"11d it is just an angry 12a"-JulianG Apr 26, 2017