Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 570 total · 3/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Lincoln National Forest Stage III (full closure) Fire Restrictions - May 25, 2022 Details


Start in the creek or up on the ledge. Either way clip the first bolt from the ledge. If you are scared stick clip the second, but it really isn't necessary. Wild inverted start through the hueco leads to an easy finish. Love this route.


Look for the big hueco in the wall.


3 bolts and chain anchors


Under the roof below the hueco, step up into the undercling with your right. Fire your left up into the hueco, get better hookup on the right side, match with the right. Then I throw my left foot into the hueco and hook, which makes bumping my right hand easier. Two decent hold to choose from, the second (rightmost) is much better. Now right foot goes to a point just below the hueco. Now for the crux move, cross with your right to a great pocket left of the bolt. You can clip, but it is unnecessarily strenuous, having to reach across with your left to reach the draw. Instead, bump your left up to an even better jug that will stand you up and let you clip with your right hand down at your waist. A fall here will not deck you, but will swing you violently back into the underside of that roof.


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