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Routes in Tombstone Wall

A Reckoning (a.k.a. Johnny Ringo) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doc S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Down by the Creek Walkin' on Water S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In vino veritas - "In wine is truth" S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Isn't That A Daisy (a.k.a. Play for Blood) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
You're a Daisy If You Do S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Start in the creek or up on the ledge. Either way clip the first bolt from the ledge. If you are scared stick clip the second, but it really isn't necessary. Wild inverted start through the hueco leads to an easy finish. Love this route.

Location

Look for the big hueco in the wall.

Protection

3 bolts and chain anchors

Beta

Under the roof below the hueco, step up into the undercling with your right. Fire your left up into the hueco, get better hookup on the right side, match with the right. Then I throw my left foot into the hueco and hook, which makes bumping my right hand easier. Two decent hold to choose from, the second (rightmost) is much better. Now right foot goes to a point just below the hueco. Now for the crux move, cross with your right to a great pocket left of the bolt. You can clip, but it is unnecessarily strenuous, having to reach across with your left to reach the draw. Instead, bump your left up to an even better jug that will stand you up and let you clip with your right hand down at your waist. A fall here will not deck you, but will swing you violently back into the underside of that roof.

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