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Objectivist Tendencies
5.4,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
FA: Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup (January 2007)
California
> Central Coast
> Hwy 33/Ojai
> Fortress
> Central Gully
Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Description
Climb up the 3rd class gully to the left of the base of "Permanent Income Hypothesis". At a tree in a gully, start to belay. Angle right up 4th class terrain until you are level with a large tree to the right. Proceed up the ridge (5.4) to a 2-bolt anchor.
This is a good approach to the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom" or "Natural Rate of Unemployment" for those wishing to toprope those routes.
Location
APPROACH
From the base of Capitalism and Freedom, traverse left on a narrow ledge and climb a loose, class-3 gully. At the top of the gully, on a grassy ledge, turn right and scramble another 20 feet up to a circular depression in the rock next to a small tree.
DESCENT
Make 2 rappels down Capitalism & Freedom with a 60m rope.
Protection
A few cams and TCUs, to 2". 2 bolt anchor at the top (both 1/2 inch Rawl-style expansion bolts), i.e. the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom".
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Santa Rosa Valley, CA
This is the route that Romain and I used to access the top of the formation that is home to Capitalism & Freedom and Natural Rate of Unemployment. Romain led during the first ascent. After reaching the top, Romain hollered down that I was on belay. Shouldering a heavy pack which contained a rotary hammer drill, bolts, wall hammer, etc., I followed the pitch. When I arrived at the top of what is the most exposed formation in all of the Fortress, Romain was belaying me off his harness. Our anchor was his body which sat straddling the summit block (one leg in the right-side gulley, one in the central gulley). He was backed up by a sketchy cam placed some distance away and below him.
I have never drilled so quickly. Jun 2, 2014