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Routes in Casket Quarry ICE

Type: TR, Mixed, 80 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 720 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Loveridge on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Location

15’ to the right of Martini. Start on slab underneath the rightward trending feature.

Description

This excellent route is definitely a “must do” at the quarry! Start on slab under right angling overlap/bulge. Climb up and into small shallow dihedral then up the face on good flakes trending left a little. Follow blocky feature back right and maneuver around or over big block/corner to gain rest stance. Follow blocky cracks to overhang below the final headwall (or dagger if there is ice). If the ice is down low, climb it to the anchors (might want to bring a screw). If there’s no ice or it’s thin, move out right and then straight up the right side of the headwall (there is a last bolt on the headwall that may or may not be clipable). Clip in steel chain anchor just above the ice

Protection

10 bolts + anchor. Depending on how much ice is up top, I’d recommend bringing a screw to protect the upper section.

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