Type: Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,938 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chad Umbel on Jan 28, 2008 with updates from Ian McEleney
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Cave Man is the most difficult pure ice route in Lee Vining Canyon. It's the right-most route on the Main Wall.

The first pitch starts up a nice 50 foot stretch of off-vertical ice. There's a bolted belay (sometimes hidden behind ice) if you decide the curtain doesn't look so good after all. Otherwise head up the steep and sustained curtain. Stop at a stance with a bolted anchor just over 30m up.

Step left off the anchor and continue to the top. How far left you move before heading up will vary with conditions. Belay at another bolted anchor at just under 30m. You can either rap from here in two raps or walk off to your right past the top of Chouinards.

Location

Main Wall.

Protection

6-8 screws and a few pins and cams if the ice is thin for the top.

Photos

Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  WI5
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  WI5
When I climbed this flow the crux was getting from the lower slabby section onto the curtain. There was no ice in between those two parts so it made the curtain bulge out and slightly overhanging with almost no foot placements. After that it is just strait up sustained to the anchor. Mar 21, 2016