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Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls

Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fern Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 41 total · 0/month
Shared By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

75 feet of fairly committed climbing with a good many 5.9 to 5.10a moves; an upper body intensive route. Mixed face, lay-back, and a couple of knuckle shearing crack jams. About 55 feet up you'll hit the crux, a shallow, rounded grove leading to a "spur" of rock. You can swing-sink a large hex on a four foot runner from the stance below, if you want the FA experience, or use the bolt. Move up and left, grip the edge of the spur, and swing a leg up over it, then pull like mad (5.10c).

Once through the crux, the are still a few 5.9 to 5.10a moves to cover the closing series to the cold shuts. FUN!

Location

On the East Face of Hollin. Below the Celebrimbor Crack continue on the path eastward toward the creek. As late as 1998 this path dribbled out by the SE corner of Hollin and some scrambling through manzanita thickets and down a few 10 foot boulders was the fastest way to reach the eastern wall. About halfway north along this face (and thankfully out of the thickets) there is a discontinuous crack system and face zone with three bolts.

Protection

Originally led as an R rated climb using a range of small to medium nuts, Lowe tricams, medium friends, and a number 10 hex to protect the crux. This climb has since been retro-fitted with three bolts, and has welded shuts at the top.

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