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Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls

Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fern Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wasp Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 89 total · 1/month
Shared By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Climbing Peripatetic entails an initial scramble westward across a free-cut 300 pound boulder that leans against the parent mass of OMSF. This block does not shift under 150 pounds of body weight, but climbers are cautioned to move with care at this point, do not pull outwards!

Climb the thin crack where small and medium-sized nuts fit nicely, then up two parallel cracks just below a mantleshelf where you will find the first bolt. The line then follows a shallow, wandering crack system -- first up and left, then up and right back toward The Black Stain. At the second bolt on Peripatetic the climber has a choice of moving up and two feet right of the bolt to a bomber ledge grip for a 5.10a experience; or the climber can move two feet west of this bolt and stay on 5.9 moves. The route then parallels the Black Stain, staying about 6 feet to its left, going up the western margin of the roof bulges to the head wall. A third bolt protects the roof zone.


This route is the fourth (from the west) on OMSF, listed as #2 p. 51 of Squeezing the Lemmon II. Peripatetic starts 8 feet left (west) of The Black Stain.


Originally led without bolts, this climb was retro-bolted in 1993, and now sports three of them.

Wired nuts, I used 8 of them #6 through 11; #6 and #7 hexes on the head wall cracks; a 1.0 red lowe tricam; 13 quickdraw sets and one 4 foot runner.


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