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Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls

Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fern Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 40 total, 0/month
Shared By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This climb was originally done as a traditional route and, as of 1998 there were still no bolts on this climb, but one might be considered to protect the roof-traverse crux in the upper dihedral.

This route gradually trends westward as you climb to finally ride some eight feet away from Fern Gully. Paso goes up its own secondary crack and dihedrals for about 30 feet to a prominent, triangular roof at the same level as the first overhanging jam crack on Fern Gully.

Climb directly up under the roof by stemming its dihedral or climbing the smooth face on the left, but there may still be some loose rock on this smooth face! It is possible to turn this roof on its eastern side and continue up the dihedral (5.8?) to the top.

On the first ascent, however, the leader moved west directly below the roof and climbed its overhang (5.9+). Handholds on the roof face are frequent, but many are thin blades and slabs that might break under heavy-use or hefty climbers. The handholds improve in strength and stability towards the left (east) side of the roof. No bolt has been place here as of 1998, but this might be a good place to drive one home, a foot below the roof on the smooth lefthand face?

Location

Start this route about 10 feet east of Fern Gully.

Protection

Wired stoppers, I used one #5, two #6s, three #7 new style chouinards. Medium stopper up to a hefty #10; hexes, #6, and #7; lowe tricams two ,5 pinks, two 1.0 reds, one 1.5 brown, one 2.5 blue. One #2 friend. 16 quick draw sets, two 4 foot runners.

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