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Routes in The Dump (Routes)

"Boyz n Berry" Dickcheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A. C. Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Jackets S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Cro-Magnon Acid Test S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dancing with the Pope S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dimpsty Dumpster S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dumpster Diving S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fry Cleaned S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Greasy Bean Undercling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headspace S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Here Comes the Rain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Homegrown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Is This How You Clip? AKA: Douglas's Excellent Adventure S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kramer v Kramer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Last Glitch Effort S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Too Keen T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pigs in Zen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Real Greasy Bean Undercling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Headed Stepchild T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride the Lightning S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimen Hymen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Son of White Trash T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suck My Dope S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiers for Allah S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Top Rope Between Is This How You Clip? and Sidewinder TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Treadin Water (AKA Steady Eddie) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unwritten Law S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vermin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Voodoo Child S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warpin Endorphin T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
White Trash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,461 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Great thin face route. Either bring a stick clip or, for full value, place a bomber nut or two below the crux face. 5.10 crack-ish climbing will bring you to the first bolt and the beginning of a very tenuous, powerful sequence. Crimp your way past two more bolts to the anchor.

Location

Between Suck My Dope and Morphine Endorphin.

Protection

3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Either place good gear below the first bolt or figure out some way to stick clip that first bolt, because it's up there.

Photos

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Rick Carpenter
Kenai, Alaska
  5.12c/d
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, Alaska
  5.12c/d
Second Bolt held on by epoxy :/ Oct 25, 2015
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Wow, what a great route. I hadn't thought of it in years and then I saw this comment. I had a great time working this thing out. Mar 11, 2010
"Not Too Keen" is generally considered 5.12+. Mar 10, 2010