Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver|
|Page Views:||288 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Desicon on Jan 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Watch your balance as you get 3 to 4 feet above the bolt. You SHOULD, at this point, be able to reach the sloping shoulder for some secure 5.8 friction grips before you get so high that the bolt will no longer catch your fall. Climbers with short arms and long legs may be disadvantaged here! Your feet will probably be 8 feet above the take off stance, once you are past the crux position, but still not safely on top of the chin.
Once the initial "bouldering" sequence has been mastered (or just do the 5.8 mount on Western Cheek) and you are on the "chin," move up directly under the nose. Short climbers may want to sink some extra protection in the cracks on the wall below the nose, but remember to watch for rope drag if you do. If you can reach the second bolt directly, on the lower left side of the nose, you can clip in here and keep drag minimized. I'm 5.8, and had no trouble hooking it.
The next moves to get up the nose are the most delightful "grip-and-swing" I've done in some time. A three star move, if one can grant individual moves a rating? On horizontal, shallow cracks, swarm your way up. The handholds improve in size and "gripability" as you continue up past the third bolt. Just about the time you think you've successfully finished this problem, the balance gets very awkward and the handholds disappear. Palming the rock will keep you from a tumble here until you can haul your rear end over the nose. A fourth bolt on the nose completes this airy, upper body workout, probably to be rated 5.10c/d? On the bridge of the nose, where it meets the "forehead" bulge, there is a fifth bolt. You can go up either side of this bulge, but going directly up its center using a shallow crack for the right hand will give you a superior finish, 5.10a/b. The headwall moves then drop off quickly in difficulty and can be protected with small-mediun nuts, lowe tricams.