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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Thomas and Rick Vance, 1/2008
Page Views: 2,953 total, 25/month
Shared By: christ on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location.

Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed. (WI3ish, ~150 ft.)

Pitch Two: Climb very thin ice and rock up a vertical step to get to the beautiful smear dripping down the corner. Climb the thin, engaging, slightly run out smear up to a sheltered alcove. A few stubbies can be placed toward the top of the pitch, and you can get some rock gear at the bottom. Save a #3 camalot, for the belay. A new #4 or an old 3.5 would work even better. An AMAZING pitch - great exposure and position! Same as pitch one: in thicker conditions this pitch would offer very solild pro. (WI 4+, M6 R, ~100 ft.)

Pitch Three: Climb a few feet down and right and make some balancy mixed moves to reach the hanging smear. Commit to the vertical ice and climb over a steep bulge to the top. We left a few slings around a bush on top of the buttress. It's not very sustained, but bouldery. (WI 5, M6 ~100 ft.)

Pitch Three variation: From the belay, climb straight up and over an overhanging rock step with a few patches of ice and frozen moss. M6.

Descent: make two double rope raps back to the base of the route.

Location

Located high up on the Black Peeler Buttress, in the vicinity of Salt Lake Syndrome. We spotted the line from GWI parking lot. If it's in, you can't miss it from the road, it's very striking.

Protection

Set of cams from #.4 to #3 Camalots, stubby ice screws, 5 pins. Two 60 meter ropes.
zoso  
Very PROUD line. And one of the best names for a route EVAR! Nov 2, 2009
bsmoot  
Very cool, Thanks for posting up Chris. Jan 28, 2008