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Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls

Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fern Gully T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

About 5 feet east of The Black Stain, scramble directly up to where two 1 inch wide cracks diverge at the inside of the large open book dihedral. Using these cracks for opposition, climb up onto the "shield" shaped face above where two bolts mark the line. Hand holds on this face are not readily visible from below, so feel around for some good ones. Continue straight up the crack that starts inside a second dihedral on the western side of the large hanging block. An alternative version goes up the east side of this block. Both paths will put the climber in the Western Eye. From this cavelike pocket you can choose again an eastward or westward line. A third bolt protects one of these variations as you pull yourself above the eye brow. Alternative finishes will follow either a more easterly track through discontinuous cracks, or a western channel that again follows discontinuous cracks.

I found the eastern most path to be a bit harder, maybe 5.9+ to 5.10a?

My printer will not allow me to scan in photos, so I'll see if I can mount some later.

Location

This climb starts some 10 feet west of the prominent nose and chin of the Old Man. It is the next natural line east of The Black Stain.

Protection

Like The Black Stain, this is a mixed gear and bolt climb with anchor chains at the top. Three face bolts, small to medium stoppers, three Lowe tricams, (pink .5 red 1.0, purple 2.) 10 quickdraw sets, one 4 foot runner.

Two face bolts are on the dark triangular area set between two cracks about 20 feet off the ground. Once into the deep, large pocket, the western-eye socket, one of the alternative "eyebrow" variations has a third bolt.

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