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Routes in Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls

Black Stain, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devious Septum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fern Gully T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paso Por Aqui T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peripatetic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Revocation of Bail T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tom's Cruise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wasp Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Cheek, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 7580 ft
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 104 total · 1/month
Shared By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route was initially led as a solo back in 1990, subsequently bolted 10/4/93 and re-done by Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver.

To find this route, start counting #1 from the first line with chains at the top, Tom's Cruise, go east to the third route (fifth named route) and this is The Black Stain. The route starts with a pull up into a "port-hole" gouge in the rock, then follow the black mineral stain up to the top where two roof/bulges are encountered. Discontinuous cracks lead up and right to the finish. Crux moves are at bulges.

LOl, I see that this single pitch has mistakenly been assigned a 7000 foot + length, don't believe it, 75 tops!

Protection

I used small to medium wired stoppers, and two Lowe tricams (.5 pink, and 1.0), and eight quick draw sets. There are three bolts on this climb as I recall it, maybe only two? I have not been out there for a while. Chains at the top can be used to rappel back down to the cliff foot, and they also serve for top-roping the climbs to either side of The Black Stain

The last time I led this route, 1998 (?) I thought it was more like a solid 5.9 than a 5.9+?

Photos

Casey Erin
San Diego, CA
Casey Erin   San Diego, CA
A classic 7500 feet! Feb 19, 2010

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