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Routes in Jemez Falls

Jemez Falls T WI2-3
Renovation of Expectation S M7+
Type: Trad, Ice, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,202 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jan 28, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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This is a wide frozen waterfall with about six definite lines on it. It is a good route to get mileage on. Depending on conditions be careful not to take the plunge into the falls, as you could get wet and miserable.


Rap in off bolted anchor to start the route and assess the conditions.


Ice Screws,#1-3 Camalots, Stoppers, runners, quickdraws, 2 bolt anchor.


Climbed the falls on 1/16/09. Ice at the bottom is a bit thin, so we belayed from the top. While the route is short, the location is great and anything that close to home (Los Alamos) gets bonus points from me. Jan 17, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
If you climb the left side, be very careful traversing across the thin ice to get to the left side and take a #1,#2, and #3 camalots and an ice screw with a cordelette for the belay up in the cave. Traverse out right to Jemez Falls proper to get off. Jan 28, 2008

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