Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 290
FA: Wally Reed and Jim Posten, 9/63
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> E Yosemite Fall…
> Five Open Books
> Second Tier
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Selaginella (5.8) offers liebacks, face climbing, off-width chimney climbing, and good ol' crack climbing. The route is sustained and committing and a real challenge for a 5.8 leader.
P1 - There are 2 potential starts, but the right side is cleaner and more aesthetic. The first pitch is 165' and ascends a series of hand cracks, fist cracks, and off-width cracks. Belay at the stump or continue left and up to the rap station.
P2 - Work your way up using your off-width and chimney skills to a belay about 120' up. Be sure to move left at the ramp!
P3 - Some more awkward climbing leads to a shelf about 110' up on a ledge.
P4 - For the final pitch you'll need an arsenal of skills; including hand cracks, fist cracks, liebacks, and face climbing.
The route starts on the upper ledge above Munginella. Climb any of the lower climbs (Munginella 5.6, Commitment 5.9, The Surprise 5.10a, The Caverns 5.8, Try Again Ledge 5.8, or the Hanging Teeth 5.8). An alternate approach involves skipping the approach climbs by hiking the streambed west of the base using 3rd & 4th Class slabs. For the descent of Selaginella, jump into the stream of tourists working their way down the Yosemite Falls trail.
1 or 2 sets of nuts and cams up to 5". Bring lots of long slings.
Route overlay for Commitment+Selaginella, a fun link-up. Photo by M. Morley.
Pitch 3 with the climber doing the traverse, the belay ledge is 4' left of the climber. Also note that there is another shallow chimney feature formed by a rock outcrop which is right before the t…
Climber heading to the top of Pitch 1. The tree marks the belay ledge.
Selaginella Pitch 3 Traverse - 2
Pitch 2. Where the rope disappears is a shallow chimney like feature, above that is a short slabby traverse to the left towards the tree.
Gearing up at the base of P1. Big seam in the right facing corner is the opponent.
Top of pitch 2 showing the 10' of 5.3 slab and the tree you should be able to see from the bottom of pitch 2.
The not recommended way to end the climb.
The "wild" pitch 3 traverse. This was pretty easy but is protected only by a bolt about 15 feet behind you horizontally. Exciting!
Fun but awkward jamming before fun but awkward offwidth on the first pitch. This pitch was excellent and had a little bit of everything.
Picture showing Selaginella, which starts from the upper ledge. Pick any of the lower approach climbs (Munginella 5.6, The Caverns 5.8, Hanging Teeth 5.8, etc.) to get to the base.
Belay ledge at the top of pitch 1, notice the webbing on the tree there. We opted to setup an anchor rather than use the tree.