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All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 1 - Lower Highway > Hairpin Turn Area > Backhand Wall

Family Affair [Suggest Change]

5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.7 from 34 votes

Routes in Backhand Wall

Big Bull S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bosch it S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Family Affair S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
GAC Rulz S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grey Wales S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grid Iron S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grid Locked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Magic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moms Rock S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triangulate T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Chris and Kimberly Craig
Page Views: 2,218 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Craig on Jan 27, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route can be done in one long pitch (130 feet)or two pitches. Both pitches are bolted. Start below a shallow left facing corner. 6 bolts to chains (Shared anchor of Bosch It).

Pitch two. Climb bolts up and over very exposed roof(10 bolts). You can rap the route with one rope but getting getting to the anchor at the top of the first pitch is somewhat difficult as the top pitch is overhanging.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is 10 feet downhill from Triangulate, which is downhill from GAC rulz. This route can be done as one or two pitches. 2 ropes to rappell from top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

16 draws if you want to do it as one long pitch.

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Ian on the on sight of Family Affair, which might have led to a little wandering...
Ian on the on sight of Family Affair, which mig…
 0
My entire family one after another leading family affair
My entire family one after another leading fami…
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Cruxy move
Cruxy move
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Family affair more
Family affair more
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Family affair pitch 1 start
Family affair pitch 1 start
 0
Reuben climbing Family affair
Reuben climbing Family affair
 0

8 Comments

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"Canada" Eric Ruljancich
"Canada" Eric Ruljancich  
If I was actually on this route, which I think I was, it was certainly not 5.9 I climbed it after a party bailed off, and I would say it felt more like 5.10.

I only climbed the first half to the anchors, and it was quite enjoyable. There is an exciting traverse to the left after the second bolt that could result it a painful pendulum collision with the flake to the right, but the climbing is quality. Feb 4, 2008
Chris Craig
 
Chris Craig  
 
Another bolt was added to the first pitch after Erics comment. Second pitch is now fully bolted. A fun long sport route. Oct 12, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard  
Did this in two pitches today and it was a blast. Cool features and lots of air on the second pitch. The first pitch seemed like it was 5.10 and the second maybe 7+. There is a bit of funk to the second pitch but I didn't have any trouble avoiding it. We traversed right about 20 ft. to some chains and got off with a 60M rope. I would take long draws and some shoulder lengths if I did it as one pitch. Feb 20, 2009
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
 
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
 
This route is a blast! Did it in one pitch, but the rope drag really sucked toward the top. Great exposure on the 2nd pitch. Some fun 5.10 climbing on second pitch if you go all the way to the top. Was able to rap off with 1 rappel with a 70m rope. If using a shorter rope, don't try and rap to 1st pitch belay station, rather rap straight off and you'll be at the top of Moms Rock. Super fun free hanging rap from there. Thanks for a great route! Nov 19, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10-
Very safe now. Clean, thin edges. Shady. Apr 8, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard  
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LOWER OFF THIS ROUTE IF YOU DO IT AS A SINGLE PITCH. HAVE YOUR PARTNER FOLLOW IT IF YOU DO IT IN ONE PITCH. A 70M RAPPEL CAN BE DONE BUT IS JUST BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU CAN ALSO RAP TO THE TOP OF MOMS ROCK AND RAP AGAIN. Mar 20, 2014
Wyatt Barnes
 
Wyatt Barnes  
 
BEES. Climbed both pitches today and lowered off over "Mom's Rock." This put the hive about 3 feet to my right. just above Mom's finish. If you rap down do it on the left side of the Arete to avoid the bees and make sure you have enough rope. Stellar Route. Anybody have a bee suit? Mar 27, 2016
RobPelon
Tucson, AZ
 
RobPelon   Tucson, AZ
 
Bee hive is still in play for this route. Feb 4, 2017

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