Trad, TR, 70 ft,
Avg: 2.3 from 9
FA: Jim Blakley
> Lake County Rd…
> Section 13
Farris' description of this route: from the top of the leaning block, "follow ramp left, or thin crack straight up. The finishes you take depend on your set-up"(259). You can follow this description, or you can set up a toprope, and do three or four variations on this theme, which seems more logical when there is no obvious line. Most ways up the rock are about 5.8, all are on nicely textured, solid rock, and the "route" is best enjoyed by climbing it a couple of different times, exploring different features each time.
Also enjoyable to string together with "Lower Slab".
Close to the middle of the cliff. Look for an obvious crack running down the cliff over a sloping edge. This is the Rubble Trouble Direct Crack. Set up your rope to climber's left of this crack (~6-10ft?), and you'll get access to most of the cool features branching off of the top of the pillar, as well as the dirty "Lower Slab" below.
TR - If combining with "Lower Slab", take care to use a sixty meter rope, tie a knot in the end, and practice vigilance. There isn't much a ledge to start on for the Lower Slab.