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Routes in Section 13

Arrow Head Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arrowhead Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arrowhead Left T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brenda's Last Fling TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Digit Damage T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equinox T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Limbo TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In The Valley T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Junk Culture TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Macho Pitchu TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minas Tirith TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path of Fierce Black Wolves, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reading Braille TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rubble Trouble T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubble Trouble Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seam's Hard TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
We Don't Need No Steenkin Ledges TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Jim Blakley
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jan 27, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Farris' description of this route: from the top of the leaning block, "follow ramp left, or thin crack straight up. The finishes you take depend on your set-up"(259). You can follow this description, or you can set up a toprope, and do three or four variations on this theme, which seems more logical when there is no obvious line. Most ways up the rock are about 5.8, all are on nicely textured, solid rock, and the "route" is best enjoyed by climbing it a couple of different times, exploring different features each time.
Also enjoyable to string together with "Lower Slab".

Location

Close to the middle of the cliff. Look for an obvious crack running down the cliff over a sloping edge. This is the Rubble Trouble Direct Crack. Set up your rope to climber's left of this crack (~6-10ft?), and you'll get access to most of the cool features branching off of the top of the pillar, as well as the dirty "Lower Slab" below.

Protection

TR - If combining with "Lower Slab", take care to use a sixty meter rope, tie a knot in the end, and practice vigilance. There isn't much a ledge to start on for the Lower Slab.

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