Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,170 total · 13/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jan 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second bolt line from the right, on the less than vertical slab before the overhanging wall. Troy Mayr's "Southern California Sport Climbing" guide gives this climb no stars, and it doesn't deserve any, if you're looking for the 5.8 face climb it's supposed to be. Everyone I've talked with assures me that this climb follows the bolt line and not the crack system five or so feet to the right (which feels maybe 5.8) but everyone agrees it's "pretty hard" for a 5.8. I'll say. The move off the ground is harder than 5.8 and the crux, passing just left of the first bolt, is a balancy move on tiny crimps with little for the feet. Move left to the arete to pass the second bolt and conquer the secondary crux: another dicey move on dime edges. From there, pump through the fractured patina, passing one more bolt, to the ledge below the anchor. A great climb if you look at it as a 5.10 crimp fest.

Kudos to the FA team; they must be real stout climbers, that this lead was so easy for them they rated it 5.8! And this isn't another Pinched Rib, where the breaking of one bomber hold could dramatically increase the difficulty level. I felt Sensible Shoes was as hard as any .10c in the area; not a lead for the 5.8 climber. Rappel to descend.

Protection

3 bolts, chain anchor

Photos