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Routes in Far Side

5.6 Crack S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
666 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Abracadabra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ahkenaten S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
An Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anselmo Power S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arblow Hard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arthur's Lip Service S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black is Beautiful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blackshirts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Centurion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chomping at the Bit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Coffee Bitch S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Creepy Ass Cracker S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Nest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crush of Love, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cry of Love, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detachable Pillar Arete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Worry, Baby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eh, Nice Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Lagarto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elvis is Everywhere S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exorcist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Facing the Animal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Far Side's Trad Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Class Tickets to The Resurrection S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakeus Maximus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying High Again S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hume's Horror S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Can Smell Your Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iguana Breath S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Region of the Butterfly Pump S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Induction Oven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lizard King, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lizard of Oz S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizzard With a View S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Me So Horny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mental Hopscotch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Ton Son S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RAMMESES S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Robbin the Hood S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
SETI S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schindler's Pissed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelfie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thick as Thieves S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Holes Make A Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
To the Max Von Sydow S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Notes, Your Majesty S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wedgie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Well Hung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wun Dum Fuk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Can't Handle The Truth S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 282 total, 2/month
Shared By: Pringle on Jan 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Black is beautiful. Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips. The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors.

Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so. Still a stellar line.

Location

This route is a little removed by Shelf standards. From the old Gallery parking area, follow the well worn trail toward the Far Side. After you reach the cliffs, continue north for a few minutes until it's possible to scramble up onto a comfortable ledge about twenty feet up off the trail. At the southernmost end of this terrace, you'll find a stunning black panel and one of Shelf's best kept secrets. Enjoy.

Per Stevenstrangeways Hurd: this is the first route on Lizard Ledge.

Protection

~10 quickdraws and something for the anchors.

Photos

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11b
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11b
Amazing climb! Continuous moves on solid stone, there are good shake outs between the harder sections. Don't miss it if you are in the area. Apr 25, 2016
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Obviously jumping into the crack or climbing the other wall would be a different route, but there is one or two spots where throwing a quick stem seems natural and to not do so would make the route a bit contrived. Still felt like 11a/11b that way. Fun line. Mar 22, 2015
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Nice addition, Pringle. This is, indeed, a great route on great rock. A good one to do in warm/hot weather as it is in the shade. I thought there were 3 cruxes on this route; 2nd bolt, the bulge, and then a slab crux of sorts near the top. Jan 22, 2008