Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 501 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pringle on Jan 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Black is beautiful. Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips. The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors.

Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so. Still a stellar line.

Location

This route is a little removed by Shelf standards. From the old Gallery parking area, follow the well worn trail toward the Far Side. After you reach the cliffs, continue north for a few minutes until it's possible to scramble up onto a comfortable ledge about twenty feet up off the trail. At the southernmost end of this terrace, you'll find a stunning black panel and one of Shelf's best kept secrets. Enjoy.

Per Stevenstrangeways Hurd: this is the first route on Lizard Ledge.

Protection

~10 quickdraws and something for the anchors.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Nice addition, Pringle. This is, indeed, a great route on great rock. A good one to do in warm/hot weather as it is in the shade. I thought there were 3 cruxes on this route; 2nd bolt, the bulge, and then a slab crux of sorts near the top. Jan 22, 2008
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Obviously jumping into the crack or climbing the other wall would be a different route, but there is one or two spots where throwing a quick stem seems natural and to not do so would make the route a bit contrived. Still felt like 11a/11b that way. Fun line. Mar 22, 2015
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11b
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11b
Amazing climb! Continuous moves on solid stone, there are good shake outs between the harder sections. Don't miss it if you are in the area. Apr 25, 2016