Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 896 total · 6/month
Shared By: Pringle on Jan 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Black is beautiful. Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips. The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors.

Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so. Still a stellar line.

Location

This route is a little removed by Shelf standards. From the old Gallery parking area, follow the well worn trail toward the Far Side. After you reach the cliffs, continue north for a few minutes until it's possible to scramble up onto a comfortable ledge about twenty feet up off the trail. At the southernmost end of this terrace, you'll find a stunning black panel and one of Shelf's best kept secrets. Enjoy.

Per Stevenstrangeways Hurd: this is the first route on Lizard Ledge.

Protection

~10 quickdraws and something for the anchors.

Photos